History
The East Anglia fens are often depicted as a flat land noticeably sparse of trees and undulations with a sky
line that meets the panoramic horizon. The soil known locally as black gold provides the life blood for some
of the UK’s richest farming producers. Without the intervention of man, the land would still be an expanse of
wetlands, unmanageable and inhospitable. We are fortunate that many towns still have areas designated as
common land such as Qua Fen Common providing a peek into the past and offering areas of natural beauty
and interest for locals.
Qua Fen Common - Google Satellite View
As the Saxons invaded East Anglia the Iceni apparently withdrew to
Soham and provided a Christian refuge for St Felix when he arrived
in 653AD, to Christianise the East Angles. Soham was the first see of
the Bishops of East Anglia. A situation regularised by the marriage
of Etheldreda to Tonbert the last King of the Iceni. The first
cathedral was founded here; subsequently moved to Ely about
820AD. The populace had gone to Soham Mereside to trade. The
Danes changed the prows of their ships; could sail in and
slaughtered the people, monks and sacked the monastic buildings.
The manorial lands themselves, were settled by the Crown before
the Norman Conquest and are documented in the Domesday Book.
Soham is situated six and two thirds of a mile from Ely and
Newmarket, because this is as far as a man could ride in a day to
set up a fresh market. Soham's market was apparently the first in
the area. The statute 'Quia Emptores' of 1290, which still remains in
force today, states that 'no Lordship of the Manor can have a valid existence unless it existed prior to 1290' when the act came
into force. Not only did the manor of Soham pre date 1290, it did in fact pre-date the Conquest, and was even recorded in a visit
and stay here by King Canute (in preference to Ely) -'on skates proceeded by a fat man called Budde - (Pudding) as he crossed
Soham. A Saxon carol records that as he followed the fat man over the Mere the monks of Ely sang loudly to no avail.
In 1372 the manor was granted to John - Duke of Lancaster (the
future King Henry 4th) and in 1459 all manors were made a parcel of
the Duchy, regularly referred to as 'Soham and Fordham', along with
some other smaller manors which had all returned to the crown
under King Henry IV in 1399. Duke Brithnoth also had a small manor
in Soham, given to the Abbot and Convent of Ely in 991AD. Other
smaller manors passed to the Tiptoft family (Earls of Worcester)
descending to female heirs, eventually taking the name of
Netherhall Wygorne. In 1685 the Crown sold the manors to Sir
Thomas Chicheley, allotting 115 acres for the use of the poor and the
founding of a grammar school. He abandoned attempts to recover
the ancient field strips. One and a quarter acres is as much as a
horse can plough in a day.
During the 1800'sthe Dunn Gardner stewards treated the manors
of Soham and Fordham as one entity, because Netherhall
Wygorne crossed the Parish boundaries. So now we begin the
current stages of manorial ownership. In 1974 Mr Timothy Clark
purchased Nethehall Wygorne and Fordham from Miriam Leader,
nee Dunn Gardiner, with the understanding that he preserves the
remains of one of the few unenclosed manors in the country. It
is distressing that the Shade Common, ploughed during the war
has not been returned to the people of Soham, with the Act of
Administration imposed by the old Newmarket Rural District
Council, having never been signed by Mrs Leader or Timothy
Clark. In 1980 the Commons Administration Committee settled
the remains of the manorial lands to Mr Clark. He has
subsequently managed to gain S.S.S.I. status to preserve the five
orchid species on the wet Horse Fen and Nature Conservancy
consider the hedgerows to be the oldest in the country and
probably date to before 900AD. Mr Clark has endeavoured to
maintain the use of the common land for all the people of
Soham now that there are no longer any townsfolk with common
rights. To have common right, it was necessary to be an adult
resident of Soham and an income of less than £12 per annum.
This would enable you to graze one cow, three sheep and six
geese for the summer!
Article by kind permission of Mr Timothy Clark – Lord of the Manor.
For more information on the commons and the history of Soham,
go to www.sohamhtg.co.uk
Commons in Soham - A list of the common land existing in 1889.
The information is from an extract from the Soham Parochial
Magazine.
Qua Fen Common - At Town End on east side
East Fen Common - South of the Weatheralls
Burgess Corner - Between Qua Fen Common and the Weatheralls.
The Shade - West side of Ely road, beyond Towns End.
Angle Common - East of Soham Mere, due West of Moat Gardens
First Pen and Back Pen - South east of Angle Common adjoining
the Lode Broad Piece - South of the Shade and between it and
the Lode.
Ancient History
The oldest field map in the county archives, is one of the strip fields. He brought lands from various non manorial holdings, taking over
the North East Fen allotments thus creating a landholding of 3,300 acres. My grandfather told me as a young man, he rode on his horse
from Wicken to Fordham to Soham to vote as a small landholder in all three parishes. I keep the last strip field for educational
purposes. Owning twelve acres of strip field entitles you to graze a horse on the Horse Fens for the summer. When I was a young man
the boundaries of many of these fields were curved, because
an ox could not plough straight as a tractor is able. The Fen
Reeves have records back over the centuries, and record the
annual letting each May. Following the death of Thomas
Chicheley, the manors went to his widow and eventually to
his son John who died in 1718. In 1719 they then passed to his
brother in law Edward Hughes, the representative of Edward
Harrison, of the East India Company. The manor was inherited
on his death by his daughter Audrey's husband Charles
Townsend. Charles had succeeded his father as Viscount in
1738. On Charles death it descended to his son in 1764 then
again to his son George who was created a Marquess in 1787.
The Lordships and remaining estate were then sold to Thomas
Devlis of Kettlesey, Norfolk and immediately acquired by
William Dunn Gardner. William had married his only daughter
Sarah, at the tender age of twelve, to the next Marquis Townsend's son and successor. He then settled the manor and manorial farms on
her husband for a life interest. He remained her 'nominal husband' until his death in 1856.The manor passed to Sarah's eldest son, not
by her husband, which he then passed to his surviving son.